Fri. 25. [25 August 1899] Woke soon after 6. Splendid morning. Washed my hair and was driven out of my room by the flies. Held counsel with Mathon at breakfast, we decided to sleep at the Refuge de l'Alpe tonight and try the Meije Sunday. Sleeping at the Chatelleret tomorrow. Off at 2.30 and reached the refuge at 4.40. The German woman after me. There came in later two other Germans, Dr Wilhelm Paulcke and Lieutenant Lohmsiller who had been doing the Ruine. They talked to my friend and I felt rather shy and glad she was there. Mme Castillan gave us a very good dinner and I had a room to myself. Delicious evening. Early to bed.
Sat 26. [26 August 1899] The others off at 3, and at 4.30. A long walk up the moraine, then up the glacier cutting steps. I fell over and let a stone down on my head, but Marius caught me. Reached the Col at 8.15 and slept for an hour there. Rather done. Got down to the Chatelleret at 11 quite fresh. No rope. We lunched and I took the Republic and lay under a rock till 3 sleeping and looking at the Meije. Then made a toilette by the help of the Torrent des Etaneons and cooked some chocolate. At 5 came a Mr Turner with Rodier as guide; nice boy, he was feeling very ill. Sat by me talking while I eat my soup. Then I went out and watched the sun set on the Meije and all the rocks turn red and then grey. Very forbidding. By this time the two Germans had arrived without a guide. Mathon made my bed in a corner of the shelf and we talked while they had supper. Lights out at 8. Mr Turner next to me and Mathon beneath, I didn't sleep at all. At 10 Rodier had a nightmare woke up and insisted on knowing the time. "C'est encore trop matin" said he. At 12 we all got up.
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