27th. — I paid a visit to Madame Zenteno the governor's lady, a
pleasing, lively little woman, who received me very politely, and sent
for her husband, who came immediately, and seemed delighted to
display the English comforts of the apartment I was received in. An
English carpet, an English grate, and even English coals, were all
very agreeable on this cold raw day. Zenteno assured me that he
found a fire thus burned in an open stove was the best promoter of
conversation, and regretted the many years he had passed without
even guessing at its comforts. He is properly anxious to promote a
taste for the elegancies of civilised life ; but under any other circumstances, I should say that there was even a little affectation in his
great admiration for everything English. However, the people of
Valparaiso are indebted to him for considerable improvements in the
roads and streets ; and a plan for a new market-place, as soon as
the funds will permit, is to be carried into execution. These things
seem little to Europeans. But they forget that this Valparaiso, one
of the greatest ports on this side of the vast continent of South America, is little more in appearance than an English fishing town.
Sidmouth is a capital city in comparison. From the governor's house
I went to the jail, a strong uncomfortable building now empty. The
prisoners are transferred to the hospital of San Juan de Dios ; and
I am ashamed to say the Spanish prisoners from Lima, sent by San
Martin, are there also, along with the common felons. The Spaniards
were in so wretched a condition on their arrival, that the English
inhabitants, in order to save them from starving, have raised a subscription; and one of the merchants daily sees their food distributed. Lady Maria Callcott (1785-1842) was een Engelse kinder en reisboekenschrijfster. Het bovenstaande fragment komt uit Journal of a residence in Chile, during the year 1822 : and a voyage from Chile to Brazil in 1823
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