Eleanor Sheffield Phelps -- 9 juli 1912

On Tuesday July 9th, we started off in a cab. With a communicative driver to see the sights. We went first to the Castle. It has a magnificent situation & many historical associations. James I & VI were born in one of the rooms. Mary of Guise died there and there is a very small chapel belonging to Margaret. The Black Watch is stationed in the Castle now & they are most enchanting people. After we left the Castle we went to St.Giles'. Outside on the pavement is the Heart of Midlothian a "hollow" heart of red stone in the pavement. The mew Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle has just been opened & is good but it needs toning down. Then past John Knox's house & other old houses of the nobles to Holyrood Palace. The exterior is Georgian & quite distressingly modern but inside it is very interesting. First we went through to the Chapel which is under repair & then up some stairs to Mary's rooms. Right by the door of her ante-chamber is a brass plate showing where Darnley murdered Rizzio. Then came her bedroom & two tiny cupboard like rooms, her dressing room & her private supper room. Underneath were Darnley's apartments joined to Mary's by a secret stairway & similar to hers, only lighter & pleasanter. Opening out of his rooms was a long hall filled with imaginary (?) portraits of the Scottish Kings, remarkable only for their family resemblance. We drove back to lunch and came past Scott's monument. Prince's street is a fine street but I don't agree with Baedecker about its being the most beautiful city in Europe. Certainly it is charming ! After lunch we bought wooly things as Scotland is icy & then went to the picture gallery, which though small, is excellent. Gainsboroughs Mrs. Graham, some good Raeburns, Leuback's, Bismarks & a lovely room full of Maris', Manves, Corots, Danbignys,& Israels & a Van Dyck which was very devilish! The original model in wax for the Medici tombs are there too.

Eleanor Sheffield Phelps (1895-1967) was een Amerikaanse die in 1912 tijdens een bezoek aan Europa een reisdagboek bijhield.